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Digital TSOP lock & EEPROM lock installation instructions
for 1000 type receivers

(AM29F040B or equivalent TSOP)


Here are step-by-step instructions for the installation of the digital TSOP lock in your receiver. It is fairly simple and can be done in about 15-30 minutes depending on your skills. For best results, take the time to read this carefully and follow the instructions in the order in which they are written here without burning any steps. First, here is a list of tools and supplies you will need:

  • Small Phillips screwdriver
  • Power drill
  • 3/16 inch high-speed drill bit
  • Tape measure or ruler
  • Felt pen marker (Sharpie)
  • Soldering iron w/fine tip & resin-core 60/40 solder
  • 28 gauge solid wire (wrap wire)
  • SPDT (Single Pole Double Throw) sub-miniature switch
  • Wire stripping tool, small long nose pliers, small cutters, X-Acto knife
  • Magnifying glass
    I have included instructions to implement an EEPROM lock at the same time. Remember: Model 1000 receivers DO NOT HAVE A JTAG interface. If your receiver gets ECM'ed, the ONLY way to fix it is to unsolder the TSOP and/or EEPROM and reprogram it with an expensive chip programmer.

    The "shorting a pin to force a stream download" trick DOES NOT WORK anymore since Charlie removed the software refresh from the stream.

    TSOP extractions & reflashing can only be performed by a qualified, well-equipped technician and its cost easily exceeds twice the amount of the receiver's net worth. And this is a best-case scenario because it assumes that a good dump for this type of receiver is available which may not be the case at all. In plain terms, this means that if your receiver gets ECM'ed, you're screwed. You have been warned.

    1. Remove mainboard from receiver chassis

    Remove the IRD cover. You must completely remove the mainboard from the receiver chassis. This is absolutely necessary because there is a trace to cut on the underside of the board. Rely on the picture below to locate the connector and mounting screws:

    3000/3500 mainboard
    Overview of the receiver mainboard.

  • Unplug the power connectors
    (pry the plastic tab with a flat blade screwdriver while pulling on the connector)
  • Remove the 2 mounting screws

  • In order to remove the mainboard from the chassis, you must also remove the locknuts from the coaxial connectors that fastens the mainboard to the backpanel of the receiver.

    1000 backpanel
    Remove nuts from receiver backpanel.

    2. Drill holes in the back panel of receiver

    Use a tape measure or ruler to take measurements and mark the center of the holes to drill with a felt marker. Drill 2 3/16" holes. The first is 4 inches from the right-hand side of the receiver case and 3/4 inch from the top. The second is at the same height and 5 1/2 inches from the right-hand side of the receiver case (1 1/2 inch to the left of the first hole) as shown in the picture below.

    Hole locations

    Turn the receiver upside down and place a small wooden block behind the metal panel while drilling the hole. This will produce a cleaner hole (less burrs on the backside of the hole) and prevent harmful metal chips from going into the receiver. Make sure you clean off any remaining metal particles after drilling since those could cause shorts on the mainboard and seriously damage your receiver.

    3. Cut trace on bottom side of mainboard

    Note where the the TSOP is located (refer to first picture above). Flip the mainboard and locate the trace to cut on the bottom side. Use the pictures below as a guide.

    Trace to cut - general area
    Larger view of general area

    Trace to cut - close-up view
    Close-up view: where to cut the trace

    Re-assemble the mainboard into the receiver chassis. Fasten the digital lock board to the back panel using the supplied pushnut. If you don't know how, please refer to the pictures in the 2700 installation guide.

    4. Solder digital lock wires to mainboard

    Use the picture below as a guide to solder the wires coming from the digital lock board to the right locations on the mainboard.

    Location of wire solder points
    Location of solder points for digital lock wires

    5. EEPROM lock installation

    SPDT switch
    Sub-miniature SPDT switch
    First, you will need to get a toggle switch. The one shown in the picture on the left is a SPDT sub-miniature type and is ideal for this purpose. If it is difficult for you to find this exact type of switch, you can use a miniature size switch which is slightly bigger but you will have to enlarge the hole in the back of the receiver since those switches have a 1/4 inch diameter threaded bushing. A DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) switch will also do if you use only one set of contacts.

    A good soldering iron with a fine tip and a steady hand is required for this next step. Heat pin 7 (shown in the picture below) and gently pry it up from the mainboard. Don't try to lift it too high since the pin can break very easily. Then solder a small 28 or 30 gauge wire to that pin. Make sure that both the pin and the wire that's soldered to it does NOT touch the square pad on which the pin used to be soldered. Solder 2 more wires on the VCC and GND contact points shown below.

    Locking 24C08 EEPROM
    Lift pin 7 of 24C08 EEPROM and locate solder points for wires

    Next, mount the switch to the back panel of the receiver in the hole next to the switch of the TSOP digital lock (the left hand side hole when seen from the back). Then solder the wires to the switch contacts as illustrated in the diagram below:

    Mount lock switch

    The position of the wires on the EEPROM lock switch in the above diagram are such that the Lock and Unlock positions of the switch lever will match with those of the TSOP digital lock. This makes the whole installation more consistent and it makes easier for the user to tell which position is which for both switches.

    Completed installation
    Completed installation

    6. Label the TSOP digital lock and EEPROM lock switches

    The final step is to label the lock switch positions on the back panel of the receiver. This is essential in order for the user to be able to tell at a glance whether his TSOP and/or EEPROM is/are locked or not. In the picture below, fancy Dymo labels were used but you can simply use a felt pen marker if you want. Just be aware that Sharpie ink markings will come off with alcohol or other solvents. Black pen markings are also harder to read when the receiver is in a dark place (inside a stereo cabinet for example). Printed labels don't have these shortcomings.

    Lock switch labels
    Locked and labeled :-)

    You're all set. When ECM's come down, you will still get the message "Serious error has occured with your receiver". But the difference is that your TSOP or EEPROM will NOT have been zapped. When that happens, simply pull the card out of the receiver and push it back in. You will be back up and running in a few seconds.
    Dr. Evil